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Member Since 01 Oct 2009
Offline Last Active Oct 14 2014 03:12 PM

#20631 Chain Oiler, Brush Type

Posted arn on 18 October 2013 - 01:15 AM

Today, modern bikes which require a visit to the service centre just once in several thousand km are a reality and even though for formalities sake, we’re supposed to check fluids and suchlike every few days nothing much is to be done. However, unless shaft or belt driven, there is a messy chore you avoid at your peril, and it needs to be repeated every few hundred km, depending on the type of chain you have. Chain maintenance.

This is a big nuisance while touring, as it has to be done more than once a day if you are covering serious distance, and an especially big nuisance if it’s a modern bike where mainstands are considered excess flab (and thereby dispensed with). That’s where the chain oiler comes in. The concept is not in the least bit new – the idea being to slowly drip oil onto the chain or sprocket over a sustained period of time with the flow controlled as per requirement, with the hope that it would flow to all areas of the chain that need lubrication. As the chain would be oiled over time, there would be less spatter, the sort that happens when the chain is sprayed a large quantity of oil/chain lube/grease every “x” number of km. Oil spattered onto the rear rim, is not only a hassle in terms of cleanup, it’s a reminder as to how little lubed the chain in the first place, considering what was put on.

The problem with chain sprays – vast quantities make their home someplace OTHER than the final drive, and chain wax is not particularly easy to clean. Neither is it cheap, and as speeds build up and the chain sprocket combo gets hot and the viscosity of the chain wax changes, it tends to spatter all over the rim and rear tyre. Over a period of time the excess also tends to collect in the front sprocket area – a thick mix of abrasive dirt and grease which periodically breaks off… onto the chain.

The problem with oils – mess, and the lubing has to be done more frequently as anything more than what the chain needs at that moment will simply be flung off, and usually the sides of the chain do not get oil on them.

Both the oil as well as the grease will have to be cleaned off at regular intervals, though a chain lubed with oil is a lot lot easier to clean. So what is needed is something that cleans the chain to some extent, and delivers lube to all parts of the chain, with minimum spatter and wastage. This is what I came up with after some trial and error, that is different from existing oilers. Considering that the total cost of the entire jing bang is less than 150 INR, and the fact that it was tested for more than 10000km recently, I’m putting up the “how to” here

What you need:
  • A 25mm paintbrush, available at your local hardware store for approximately 20 bucks
  • Two tie wraps, one long, and one short. In case you cannot get a long tie wrap, you can join two short tie wraps together.
  • An infusion set, available from the neighbourhood chemist at about 80 bucks.
  • A craft knife
  • A plastic tube with 6 mm ID (easily available), about 1 meter
  • A syringe (larger the better) as the oil dispenser

This is what the business end of the dispenser looks like. To get to this point, the most important step, one that requires a little skill, is to cut a flat notch in the handle of the brush such that the brush is centered over the lower part of the chain as can be seen in the photo. On either side of the chain the brush should stick out a little, and the bristle tips touching the chain should bend SLIGHTLY.

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The brush is fixed by means of a figure of 8 tiewrap, as shown in this photo, possible only if you have a robust tie wrap.

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More to come!

#20633 Chain Oiler, Brush Type

Posted arn on 18 October 2013 - 10:35 AM

Please note that even when the tie wrap is tightened, there is some scope for the brush to move. This is a critical part of the design as it allows some to and fro and up down movement, to compensate for that of the chain. Over time, the chain will eat away some of the central portion of the brush, but that makes no difference as to the lubing properties at all. Being a brush, here is a reservoir of oil in it which is gradually deposited on the chain even when the tubing has run dry. All infusion sets have a flow rate adjuster, it's quite easy to adjust to slow the flow rate.

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Usually, the tubing on the set is to long and has to be cut. The end is fitted on the flat face of the brush with another tie wrap as shown in the first diagram - the oil released will dribble onto the bristles. It does not matter whether the tube is fastened to the front or the back of the brush.  Infusion sets have a chamber where you can see the drops /minute - this has to be connected to the 6m tube which will slide onto it. The larger tube is what you will fill oil into. This can be positioned anywhere convenient, in this case near the tank. It's preferred that you fasten it by some means so that you do not have to dig into he recesses of your bike to find the open end when you need to oil up

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You'll have tubing left over - this is handy to make the oil dispenser (fancy way of describing a syringe with a tube at the end of it) I prefer to join two syringes - such a setup has enough oil for 5000km. You can use spent engine oil,  here I am using 90W oil (gear oil)

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And this is how it is filled, just about 5ml at a time. Sounds like very little, but remember, very very little of that will be thrown away as spatter - it will all go towards actually lubing the chain. You'll be pleasantly surprised to see your chain WET even after 600km.

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I'd already posted about a chain oiler I'd developed quite a while ago:
motoroids.com/talks/topic/1498-cbr250r-chain-oiler/  but the major problem was that it:
  • Did not lube the entire chain - the oil had to flow from one side to the other and it did not lube the sides at all
  • Did not clean the chain at all
  • Was a big nuisance to reposition after adjusting the chain. Wrong position = no oil on the chain!
This oiler is independent of chain settings, only care has to be taken regarding repositioning while changing tyres, cleans the sides of the chain, and lubes the entire chain too.

#20642 Chain Oiler, Brush Type

Posted arn on 04 November 2013 - 11:57 PM

This is the metering device:

You can control the number of drops/min by adjusting the flow control device

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And this is what controls the metering device. Moving the wheel to the right progressively constricts the pipe lumen, therefore the slower the flow

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For practical purposes, though there is no need to adjust the flow - it takes time to trickle through, the viscosity of the oil being much more than the IV fluids that the tubing is designed for, additionally, the brush soaks it up some before releasing the rest.


Tiewrap (brush) too loose. No prizes for guessing what happens next.
Tubing too loosely connected to brush. Again, no prizes for guessing. Over time, though, the tie wrap "grooves" the tubing, making it less easily detached from where it is supposed to be. A loose brush, though, can result in the tubing moving forward to the point it will be pulled away from the tie wrap securing it to the brush. Originally I'd drilled a hole in the brush to insert the tubing, but that is really not necessary - the oil dribbles down the side of the brush to the bristles just fine.

At present, the thing on my bike is secured by tie wraps as it was more or less experimental, but I'd strongly recommend that you make an aluminium bracket to hold the brush, with a 2mm strip. Safer. Or, at least add a second tie wrap for redundancy.

#20530 Mercedes W124 E220 1997 For Sale

Posted vikramvicky1984 on 27 February 2013 - 03:33 PM

Hi friends,

Selling my beloved w124 E220


Fully renovated with all OE parts

All original dash and leather interiors

New pioneer HU with subwoofer control. B&W sept 2012

4 Yoko V550 OE size oct 2012 (B&W) done max 1.5k run from pal tyres

have used 3 Yoko 205/55 sports tyres used to give away as well (one in stepney)

Cassette tape is with me

ABS, Airbags, Power mirrors, everything works

OE alloys

original Owner's manual and packet as well

new OE mudflaps

rear curtain

body cover of good quality ( was pain to find for such a big car)

Work done in april 2012 51k odo:

All new suspension, brakes, engine & gear mounts, brakes, lights
upgrade, Ac cooling coil, w124 wiper blade Mobil1 and all fluids

Mumbai (MH03)Passing done. Green tax till oct 2017


front passenger PW making noise

Gate lock slot has problems( someone played around) not a big problem as vacuum is working perfectly

rear monogram stolen

Shall get all fixed at my cost before selling

radio antenna doesn't come out any more, tried fixing but wasn't worth the effort. FM is working

Not a single chalu part ever added.

Never given to any cleaner, always washed/polished myself or got it done professionally

I got it at 51k odo and now its around 57k, but i believe genuine is around 1.57 lakh kms

I know my price is premium, but so is the car.

You are welcome if you are ready to pay right price for the right car.

You can bring along a mechanic or expert to verify my claims.

Pls call on 9870597503 for inspection in vashi on weekends

Brokers excuse.

contact details
Phone: 9870597503
Email: 8kumarv@iimahd.ernet.in

more pics: E220 w124 – Google+

Other details:

Rs. 499,999 Location: Vashi, Navi mumbai Kms Covered: 57,000 Color: White Variant: E220 Fuel type: Petrol Transmission: Manual Reg. State: MH (MH 14 G 5311) No. of Owners: 4 Road Tax: Individual Insurance: 3rd Party till 04/2013 Valid Warranty: None Interior Color: Grey Service history: Very detailed Reason of sale: emptying whole Garage

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#20500 Interesting bikes you came across while surfing the web.

Posted rahul_rn on 22 January 2013 - 12:31 AM

^ Go get one man, too long you've been thinking which to buy.. :P

#20437 Aamchi Mumbai Thread

Posted arn on 10 December 2012 - 01:41 AM

We have not had a meet for a long time.

There was talk of organising some courses but nothing came of it. I was thinking of organising  a tubeless tyre repair hands on session cum basic electrical work session including upgrading the lighting on your bike.

It will be in the range of Rs 500/head inclusive of a packed lunch, and everybody will get to do a tyre repair + basic electrical joinery. Thinking of also having a HID/higher wattage bulb fitted on one volunteer bike as part of the course.

Your thoughts, please!

#20371 When The 1098 Goes Bling Bling!

Posted Silver Phantom on 20 November 2012 - 04:34 PM

View Postpulsurge, on 19 November 2012 - 09:32 PM, said:

The cost of that Dhamaka is too expensive ;) And we Indians would never strip a faired bike..in fact we put tonnes of fairing plastics over naked ones!
That is due to our Indian Sanskruti... Jitna Jyaada kapdaa, utni Acchi ghar ki Ladki... :P

#20259 Punjab To Be The Main Center Of Focus For Royal Enfield.

Posted arn on 06 November 2012 - 09:14 PM

^^ which, I think, is better for most of the owners in any city. In Mumbai, the "uniform" for many CL500 riders seems to be a beanie "helmet" and shorts with sandals/rubber chappals.

The RE is in it's element puttering around town, threatening to do a long tour at any given moment, but do remember that in this day and age most of them have ONE fuse for the entire electrical system (the starter gets another), and the non counterbalanced engine design has not changed significantly since the days of Rajendra Prasad  when some not particularly talented possibly hungover engineers suddenly realized that they had to submit some some sort of motorcycle design  to their employer in a hurry....

#20269 Punjab To Be The Main Center Of Focus For Royal Enfield.

Posted satyenpoojary on 07 November 2012 - 08:55 PM

Racists :P

#20272 Your next bike!

Posted L.P. on 07 November 2012 - 09:01 PM

I agree to Deepak, but for some reason I am GaaGaaa over R6 too, so either its a 600RR or R6 or ZX6R, and I am hitting the track :D :D

#20237 Your next bike!

Posted rahul_rn on 05 November 2012 - 10:46 AM

^ Don't you think these will be much, much cheaper..? + would make sense too, more usable power..
Not to mention spares which aren't available for the models available here so spares of bikes which aren't here cannot even be thought of..

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#20260 Your next bike!

Posted Silver Phantom on 07 November 2012 - 10:38 AM

View Postpulsurge, on 06 November 2012 - 08:37 PM, said:

Its coz I have started to like the way Honda makes their bikes...no jhing jhaang, relatively comfortable than the competition, very easy to get alongwith.
EggZhagTlee My point too..

#20067 Rumor: Mahindra Could Be Working On A Magnetic Damper Based Suspension System...

Posted NikhilB on 26 October 2012 - 04:51 PM

Electro-Magnetic suspension is not a new concept.
It has been around for a while now.
IIRC, even Bose (yes, the audio guys) had developed one.

As far as patents are concerned, Electro-magnetic suspension is just the technological concept.
You could apply it in many different ways and patent your application method.
Hopefully, M&M has developed a cost-effective way to use the tech.

#20075 When The 1098 Goes Bling Bling!

Posted Akash03 on 26 October 2012 - 05:21 PM

Thts impressive ( the exhaust ) but wts the machinery yr...... the specialist engneer will also get confused in this bike if it ever got faulty.... :P

#20050 When The 1098 Goes Bling Bling!

Posted rahul_rn on 26 October 2012 - 03:54 PM

If you ask me this looks more of a mess..